Improving compliance and performance for black hair dyes

March 2017

Uncertainty about evolving regulations for hair dyes in Europe has pushed some of our customers to focus on a more limited range of dyes for hair coloration. This raises a few challenges when creating stable, deeper shades of dark color.

It’s all about consumer safety

In Europe, hair colorants are regulated under the Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009/EU, and the majority of manufacturers tend to use ingredients authorized in Annex III of this regulation. Increasingly, formulators request our help to create coloring bases optimized to obtain deep, dark color using dyes listed in Annex III only. And while this regulation is currently only active in Europe, we see formulators worldwide following these recommendations to create hair colorants that are safe and globally compliant.

Working closely with our customers’ regulatory departments, Sensient has developed Arianor® Black Night, a new formulation of direct hair dyes for semi-permanent hair coloration. This new formulation meets the highest purity standard set up by the SCCS and is based solely on dyes approved today in Annex III of the European Cosmetic Regulation. Like our other Arianor® products, Arianor® Black Night is also compliant with Japanese and South Korean regulations for hair color.

Deeper black, longer lasting

Arianor® Black Night is an exciting addition to our Arianor® range. This ingredient provides formulators with a new solution for easy black hair color development. Even at lower concentrations, our tests demonstrate that Arianor® Black Night provides more intense black shades than existing solutions on the market while providing long lasting coloration.

Arianor® Black Night visually performs better than existing solutions to obtain deep black shades.

Arianor® Black Night 306089 resists shampooing better on bleached blonde hair than existing solutions.

Solution for damaged hair

We have developed Arianor® Black Night using only Basic dyes, making it particularly suitable for damaged hair. Damaged hair is typically characterized by disorganized, loose cuticles and an increased anionic character. Because Basic dyes are larger than nitro dyes, they can still penetrate the loose cuticle network, and their size makes them more resistant to washing. Moreover, these dyes have a strong cationic profile, which contributes to their good affinity with highly anionic hair. This helps brands meet consumer expectations for hair coloration that can last longer, even on damaged hair.

Complementing our extensive Arianor® dyes range, Arianor® Black Night offers hair specialists a new ingredient that can be immediately incorporated in their coloring base to obtain long-lasting, intense black shades for their customers. Contact us now for formulation advice or samples.